You apply a real ceramic coating, the ones contained in a perfume shaped bottle.  I am referring to an authentic glass coating, from a professional standpoint.  Not a spray on glorified paint sealant!  Something that looks like it came from a perfume bottle, for context.

But early on it appears there is nothing on your paint.

Is it the lack of paint correction?  Absolutely not!  Those assertions that the presence of swirls are iron clad evidence of an unstable coating bond, are actually ridiculous.  Oxidation present (more commonly on older vehicles) or some form of protection that is best removed with an abrasive, are very valid reasons for polishing to ensure a proper coating bond.  You also may not want to live with your paint in its current condition for the duration of the expected coating life.  Although I would not suggest getting obsessed about irresponsibly polishing to a level you wouldn’t appreciate to impress people on social media.  But it is preferable to enhance the finish slightly more than what you perceive you need.  Also ceramic is technically glass on a molecular level (glass coating), which means it magnifies defects.  Those defects include the clay bar marring.

Is it the coating?  It is possible.  Using a coating from a respected and reputable brand that professionals and serious enthusiasts use, is recommended.  Detailed Image would be an example of a supplier carrying more reputable options.  It is possible you received a bad bottle (bad batch).  But there is also a possibility something happened in terms of user error that is not discussed enough.

Likely the most common cause of failure, when your coating is showing signs of failure less than one month in, is your panel prep process.  That can include not following the application instructions for the panel prep.  What is even more common are issues involving the use of homemade panel preps with the intentions of applying a ceramic coating.  This is especially the case for people who swear by using a combination of water and Isoprophyl Alcohol (IPA mixture) to remove traces of polish residue.

Rubbing alcohol was not produced with the intention of removing the residue left from polishes.  I do know some accomplished detailers who use an Isoprophyl Alcohol mixture to remove polish residue.  They are extremely skilled and experienced.  They have gone through 1000s of coating applications and tested probably a 100 different polishes.  They are aware of the proper ratio for IPA and understand it is a finicky product to use for this type of application.  Honestly, most people do not fall under this category of detailer.

There has been some push back for years towards myself and other experienced respected professionals over the use of a real panel prep.  This particularly comes from those defending IPA mix use.  One of the most common talking points is the message that they have been doing it for years without a problem.  Again if you have a system that really is working for you, I am not saying absolutely change.  But my concern is often rooted in the question of, how would you know for sure?  Could you have had some past problems with client vehicles and were never informed?  Whether it is your own or someone else’s vehicle, could a change in the coating reveal a flaw in your methods.  Some coatings may be more forgiving.  More often the case, could a change in polishes make removing the remnants more difficult with your IPA mix?  Have you noticed the working time (usability) of polishes increasing over the years.  There are consequences that come from those benefits in terms of effective removal.

Even those that use a real panel prep, product synergy may be a concern.  Does the polish you use align with the panel prep you use?  Does the coating align with the panel prep you use?  I would obviously not fault anyone for taking the easier/recommended approach of product synergy.  But many of us realistically are not going to match all of are polishes, preps, and coatings to the same brand.  For me, one of my first product recommendations is Gyeon Prep.  One of the reasons why I use this product, is due to the fact that it is a real panel prep that is also not a strong solvent.  For those people who have concerns about the use of strong solvents, Gyeon Prep is a good option.  Since there is no perfect product in this situation, if I am only using Gyeon Prep I recommend you apply the product heavy and in multiple rounds (with several towels).  For those looking for something stronger, Gtechniq Panel Wipe is one of my favorite products as well.  It is a strong product, with a different application method.  As stated in the instructions you want to spray the product on to a plush microfiber towel, with a second plush microfiber on hand for removal.  Being a strong solvent based panel prep, I usually save this for a last step prior to the coating application.  I also take some time using this product (pace myself) and wait after application (15 to 20 minutes) before applying a coating.

Other tips that might provide you with peace of mind.  When in doubt using a solvent based (Gtechniq Panel Wipe) panel prep prior to coating application may be your best option for peace of mind.  Many detailers will actually wash the car after paint correction with either a higher than usual rinseless wash concentration or a more alkaline car wash solution, prior to a panel prep.