Product Review: P21S 100% Carnauba Wax
by Ivan RajicP21S has done it again by creating another outstanding product that detailers will love. P21S already has one of the premier carnauba waxes on the market (P21S Concours Carnauba Wax) and they have done an excellent job of creating a new wax (P21S 100% Carnauba Wax) with a superior shine. The gloss enhancing capability of this formula will make your paint look extremely wet with a rich and deep reflection. Brazilian carnauba wax is very desirable because it’s ideal for paint when you want the maximum shine. Previously using 100% pure carnauba wax was not possible because Brazilian carnauba wax is too hard to spread. Therefore the original P21S Carnauba Wax uses a mix of Brazilian carnauba wax and German waxes to help the product spread easier. However the team of engineers at the P21S headquarters in Germany have manipulated the composition of their new wax, P21S 100% Carnauba Wax, so it can be readily used by detailers. Applying a pure carnauba wax gives you the shine that other waxes are trying to create with formulas containing much lower levels of carnauba. P21S 100% Carnauba Wax will enhance the gloss of your paint like no other wax. After one application the wax will becomes very hard giving you that “hard candy” appearance and it becomes an excellent form of protection. This wax will help repel moisture, bird dropping, acid rain, pollution, contaminates and more. This wax will not stain most rubber and vinyl trim. The new formula also comes with a new applicator pad that is more durable and ergonomic. The new applicator fits perfectly inside the jar during storage and collects and distributes just the right amount of product during application. One jar should get you at least twenty applications when applied properly. Don’t accept any substitutes, get the best with the P21S 100% Carnauba Wax.
Being a big fan of P21S waxes and a long time user of their Concours Wax, which I reviewed in my P21S Concours Carnauba Wax Review, I immediately wanted to give the 100% a try. I wanted to see what all the hype was about and to compare it to the wax I reach for pretty much every time I’m applying a carnauba wax to a client’s vehicle. What I found was that I liked the 100% better in every way compared to the Concours. I felt it looked better, applied easier and durability was about the same or slightly better, but that may be subjective as I didn’t do any scientific testing.
Application & Removal:
The 100% wax felt a bit easier to both apply and remove than the Concours. Just to clarify, I don’t mean to say that the Concours wax is hard to apply in any way, simply that I feel the 100% is slightly easier to apply. The Concours feels a bit “harder” compared to the 100% in that it needs to be spread out a bit slower and over smaller sections in order to get even and thin coverage. On the other hand, the 100% wax feels more “liquid” in a way so spreading it out over a panel is a breeze. Removal process is pretty much the same from my experience so I find the two waxes equal in that regard. Letting the wax slightly haze without fully drying ensures effortless removal and a glossy finish. It also comes with a P21S applicator pad that works great at evenly applying a thin layer of wax, making application much easier than with other pads. In fact, I purchase many of the P21S Deluxe Wax Applicators to use with other waxes, and I also wrote a review on it Product Review: P21S Deluxe Wax Applicator.
Looks and Durability:
As I said above, the durability of the 100% seemed on par with other similar carnauba waxes. I get anywhere from 4 weeks on the low end to 7-8 weeks on the high end of the durability scale. From my experience, applying a couple coats works great at extending the durability a bit, but anything more than 2 coats seems like overkill.
As for looks, I find it provides a very clear and glossy finish. In my opinion, it is a bit deeper and sharper looking than the Concours wax, but that’s obviously highly subjective. Used on any paint it leaves a nice shiny, glossy and deep looking finish, but as with most quality carnauba waxes it works best with darker colors, such as black or dark reds and blues.
Final Thoughts:
Simply put, this is one of the best waxes on the market, especially considering the price. It is only slightly more expensive than the Concours wax ($20-25) and a good $40 cheaper than the Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax, making it by far the best bang for the buck. In terms of looks and durability, in my opinion the 100% competes and beats many other higher end and higher price waxes, such as some Zymol and Swissvax, while still only costing a fraction of the price.
I have come to like the Pinnacle Souveran wax slightly more than the 100% but still use the 100% fairly frequently. I would mainly recommend this wax to someone who’s looking to upgrade from some $20-30 wax and is in search for something a bit better looking and/or easier to use. It is surely a great wax and one that I see myself using for a long time to come.
Hope this was informative enough and thanks much for reading!
Thanks Ivan for this product presentation, can this wax be removed using a machine? Thanks.
Bob
Bob,
I’m sure it’ll be fine to remove the wax with machine, but I was never a big fan of doing so because it requires using some sort of microfiber bonnet over a foam pad. This wouldn’t be an issue if I didn’t have to replace the microfiber every half panel or so as there’s wax that saturates the microfiber and makes it worthless in removing more wax.
That said, I prefer to do all wax and/or sealant removal by hand as I have more control and can easily go over a section that has some leftover wax.
Hope that helps!
Thanks Ivan, I will do it by hand. Best Regards.
Bob
Hi Ivan.i have a black jeep.Would this b a good recommendation ?
My jeep has mild surface scratches I would like to get rid of.Would u suggest this product?
Something else?should I get paste or liquid?what I’m trying to do is get the best shine on a black vehicle and also remove minor surface scratches and marring
Hi Jack,
This would definitely work well for the black Jeep. If you’re looking to get rid of scratches or swirl marks, you’ll need to look into an actual polish because the wax won’t remove any swirl marks and it doesn’t have much filling ability to hide them.
Hope that helps.
Ok so I put wax on first,then a coat of polish?i put the wax on once a month because of weather conditions and its a daily driver vehicle,and because it pure carnauba,which generally doesn’t last long.What polish would u recommend?
No not in that order. When I say polish I’m talking about a pure polish intended for correcting paint, whether by hand or by machine. Normally, if you have any swirl marks in the paint, a machine polishing is required to remove the swirl marks. By hand you can usually slightly improve swirl marks and get rid of oxidation, etc., but it’ll be a lot of extremely tiring work. It can also get dangerous as you may put some concentrated pressure with a finger or two and remove a bit too much clear coat by rubbing the paint by hand, so I’d recommend either investing in products to attempt the polishing yourself, or taking it to a good detail shop for the paint correction.
In short though, you’ll want to use the polish to get some correction and improve the surface scratches and marring, then protect it with a coat of wax or sealant.
Hope that clears it up a bit.
Will meguirs or mothers products be good or do u think another brand would b better?
Thanks.So the detailer probably is the best bet?
Yes I would say a good detailer is probably your best bet unless you want to get some products and give it a shot yourself. I say GOOD detailer because a bad one can easily make the finish on your car even worse and not only will you waste money paying him, but you’ll be also spending money or time to fix it after the bad detail.
As for the Meguiar’s polish you used once before, I believe it’s a typical over the counter polish that will lightly bring out more shine. I don’t think that polish is aggressive enough for you to have damaged your clearcoat unless you used it with a lot of pressure or with an abrasive pad.
I used meguires deep crystal polish once before it says its a polish designed to bring out shine.I put it on by hand then the wax.u dont think I would have done any damage to clear would you?This polish was a shine and luster polish basically not a paint correction polish
Thanks Ivan I will do the detail thing.I have a good shop nearby.
But would would you recommend in between detailing to use to remove any if they appear?and what would b the procedure?
Jack,
You’re bound to get swirl marks eventually, so what I recommend all my clients is to bring the car in about once a year for light polishing to improve the paint and eliminate lighter swirl marks. I wouldn’t recommend doing anything in between unless you use the proper machine, pads and polishes and have some experience with them.
Sounds good. truck is about 8 months old has minor marring on.
I’m from pa weather is tough and it’s an every day driver.This normal?have all the right stuff two bucket system premium cloths the works.
Yeah I’d say light marring/swirling is normal after 8 months if the car sees bad weather and washed often.
And I still get this kind of stuff.Dont really know what else I can do.Unless its just inevitable.
It’s not bad minor micro marring but aggravating.A good detailer will correct this then?
Hi Ivan.Thanks for all your help.I will continue to purchase off you site because of your service.One last question.My son doing a good deed ran a snowbrush across hood.Not real bad some lines and swirling similar to a swirl u would get from poor cleaning practice just a little more noticeable.Still only can notice in sunlight.Im assuming if they were deeper u would b able to see them all the time.Would a good detail job remove them?This wouldn’t be something that could go through clearcoat and create a problem would it?Through your experience would they b able to be removed?
The lines go side to side in snowbrush motion.
Please let me know
Thanks
Hi Ivan.Thanks for all your help.I will continue to purchase off you site because of your service.One last question.My son doing a good deed ran a snowbrush across hood.Not real bad some lines and swirling similar to a swirl u would get from poor cleaning practice just a little more noticeable.Still only can notice in sunlight.Im assuming if they were deeper u would b able to see them all the time.Would a good detail job remove them?This wouldn’t be something that could go through clearcoat and create a problem would it?Through your experience would they b able to be removed?
The lines go side to side in snowbrush motion.i can barely feel it with fingernail test it doesn’t catch my finger
Please let me know
Thanks
Hi Jack,
It’s tough to say whether or not those types of scratches can be removed without actually trying and measuring the paint. I’ve seen my fair share of those marks here in Chicagoland and sometimes they’re fairly shallow and can be easily removed with a couple polishing steps, but other times the brush or plastic claw used for snow/ice removal simply scratched the clearcoat too deep. Hopefully the ones you suffered can be easily removed.
My fingernail does not catch it.its a very light line similar to the minor swirl line.I can barely feel it.If that’s the case it should come out with the detail job I’m going to get right.My friend also has a question.He did a fingernail test on his and know he got a little fingernail scratch very light he said he didn’t do it hard at .all.theres a very fine line there again not a fingernail catch type.How bout that one?A good detail job should remove it?Also when I quik detail my jeep in between I wash and dry and then spray w blackfire.Another service guy from your outfit suggested it.Any good?or something else?If these scratches are not catching w fingernail they should come out.Is that correct?
If these lines were unable to be removed ur fingernail would catch more and prob would be harder to remove.but they are not.Is that a good way of determining?
Hi Jack,
I truly wish I could say with certainty whether or not the scratch can be corrected, but I simply cannot do it over the internet. As I said above, there’s a chance it can be easily removed with some polishing, but there’s also a chance that it’s fairly deep and won’t be safely removed completely. Hopefully it’s not too serious and it comes out just fine.
Thanks Ivan lets move on to these plastic bumpers on front and back and those plastic running boards.Fading is starting using mothers back to black.Finding it doesn’t hold up after 1 rain it’s gone.Some spots are white and are not coming out I put the mothers on but u can see those white spots after rain.I tried to light rub out but they won’t come out.When I put the mothers on it covers it but its appears after next rain.Is there a wax or sealer I can put on after the mothers dries I can put on to keep it better?What are these white spots on this that won’t come out?Has the bumper paint faded to where they just won’t come out?Although the mothers covers it but like I said those white spots appear again.Any suggestions?
Hi Jack,
I don’t have too much experience in restoring faded plastics, so I really can’t give you a firm recommendation on that one. Hopefully another author or a reader can chime in and help you fix or at least improve it.
It’s like chalky white spots that are stubborn I have to put a pretty thick coat of mothers back to black on to cover them.just a few spots on each bumper not all over but one swipe of product won’t cover it gotta put a thick coat but after a wash it disappears.What product would u suggest to make more durable and last so I won’t see those chalky spots
Can u pass this info along to another specialist in your firm and have them let me know?
Hi Ivan thanks for all ur help.another question though.When I wash the vehicle it seems after I’m done before I do a quik detail or wax there are some stubborn contaminants on the vehicle.What can I use?and in what order should it b applied.
Thanks
If there’s contamination I would first try IronX before the wash to see if that gets rid of most of them, otherwise you’ll have to do a clay bar decontamination. Nanoskin Autoscrub pads work great instead of clay bar, but I would recommend using the Nanoskin Glide clay lube.
The iron x seems like it may work I only have a few areas.The clay bar might b much on a vehicle 1 yr old.But how does the clay lube glide work?
Also another question on detailing there is mixed feelings on machine or hand?Having a hard time finding a guy that can do correct procedure w machine the last one left minor holograms on vehicle I found a guy who is very good but only does it by hand he is going to clay bar strip wax and do it all over.Are there any drawbacks by hand?will he b able to remove light swirls and the whole deal by hand if done correctly?Or does the machine do better if done correctly?He says he can get holograms out by hand.Like I said prob is finding someone who knows how to use machine correctly I appreciate ur input
Thanks
Also would I use this lube glide in place of a detailer doing a clay bar?
Is this just like a more easier method of clay barring?
Would this pretty much take the place of a detailer doing a clay job
Or should I still have them do one.I havnt had one yet the vehicle is 1 yr old
A good detailer will probably do the decontamination regardless before polishing to ensure the surface is clean. The clay lube glide is either for the autoscrub pads or clay bar. I would recommend you read the detailing guide on the website here to get a better understanding of the whole process and go from there.
Thanks for the help ivan went to the detail guide on your site.I just purchased p21s 100% wax how often should I apply?im reading a lot saying about 6 weeks.What are your thoughts on flat black?
I have p21s deluxe also Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant , can i used p21s paintwork cleanser after wdps and p21s carnuba.
Thanks like always
I just used p21s for the first time on my black AM . What a great product, easy to apply and easy to remove and cars looks absolutely stunning!,,
I also used the klasse glaze and followed your instructions for removal the second coat I put on and it was very easy to remove. Car looks great even after the klasse glaze before ever waxing it. Your detailed instructions on proper use were very helpful. Thanks
I live in Florida and my truck is outside 24 / 7 in this relentless sun. Is this a good wax to nurish the paint and clear coat?
Eric – A wax is designed to simply protect the paint, so it will not remove any oxidation on the surface. If you are looking to protect, the Jescar Colorlock (wax) or Jescar Powerlock (sealant) are great options.