Gyeon Mohs Evo Review
by Ian Martinez
Gyeon Mohs has been a staple in the Gyeon line and the new Evo version improves it even more by being easier to use, and only requiring one layer. While you may think 2 is better than 1, I promise you this one layer is doing the Mohst.
Application/Removal:
Goes on fairly thin, so keep your bottle handy.
Then it flashes almost immediately and you can see it start to sweat. So while you need to work in smaller sections, there is no waiting for flashing and it removes so easily. You get used to a rhythm while applying and go into what is professionally called the Mo Zone. Probably one of the easiest protection products I’ve ever used. That goes for wax, detail sprays, sealants, etc. There is no effort needed at all, and it all comes up on the first wipe, no trail chasing.
Look/Feel:
Super slick, when you touch it your finger glides across the paint like a Michael Jackson moonwalk, and the shine it produces will have you looking at the man (or woman) in the mirror. It’s not a super wet look, but an extreme gloss shine. Instead of being a SiO2 coating, this is the first to be Fluoro-modified Polysilizane or FMP as the kids call it these days. (They don’t, no one does). This is why you get a different kind of shine compared to typical coatings and one of the biggest differences of it.
Water Repellency:
Mohs has always been great at this and due to its formulation it has very good self cleaning ability and Evo takes it to another level. Repels water great and makes drying a breeze.
This coating lasts up to 3 years, is about 3-4H hardness and you CAN add layers if you would like for additional protection. This would add another layer of 3-4H, it does not make it 6-8H, because that’s not how chemistry works.
They include an easy to read care manual that you can give to your customer after installation.
The lid is also child proof so you don’t have to worry about your toddler stealing it and coating his Power Wheels. I guess it’s also safer or whatever.
Overall, Mohs Evo is great. Of course it is. Mohs was great and this was the next Evolution so it can only get better. Like Rhydon was great and what could get better? Then boom, years later Rhyperior comes out. Exactly the same thing.
Im confused on the hardness scale… does it matter… some coatings claim 9h and some 10h… this coating only be a 3h does this translate to more wash induced marring?… i get that that nothing prevents rock chips or toddler handle bar scraps…thankyou
The hardness scale coatings are listed on is the pencil hardness scale and the higher the hardness (i.e. 9 or 10), the more resistance to heavy imperfections you will see. I would note that 3H is still a very hard score and while the score might be lower, you generally see more slickness with lower hardness scored coatings. Generally this means that with proper care, these coatings are designed to resist more dirt and grime from the surface.
Reece,
The Mohs scale is not the same scale as the pencil hardness scale (1-10). Do some research on it. That 3 is on the Mohs scale. The hardest true ceramics will be around 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale. Since Si02 is a quartz product and quartz is 7 on the Mohs scale, these ceramics would be just below that (6-6.5). You would have to know the Mohs scale rating for the other ceramics to truly compare.
Bill – Check out my reply to G. This reply comes directly from Gyeon.
Barry,
See my response to Reece on this.
I was looking at the instructions and they say to do a “degreasing wash” before coating using dishwashing soap. I hate to do that cause I just got the finish looking nice. Used Opt. HyperPolish.
OR can you just use Eraser or Gyeon Prep (IPA type solution) ??
Erik – I would not recommend using dish washing soap as it can leave behind a film that will cause issues with the coating adhering to the surface. After thoroughly cleaning and polishing your paint, I would recommend using the Gyeon Prep. This product will help remove any oils or residues on the surface, leaving it completely clean and ready for a coating application.
Just wash your car as you normally would. Do a wipe down of the paint with a 50/50 solution of iso alcohol and water prior to applying the ceramic coating..
When you say small area is it 2 x 2 or smaller?
Apply within a section that works for you and your environmental settings. Personally I work with a 1 x 1 section and bump up to a larger section if the weather allows.
So I guess with a roof panel you would divide it up into perhaps 6 to 8 square sections? Is there anything to be aware of after buffing out one section and doing the next section? I assume there has to be some degree of overlap (like half an applicator worth) and then just buffing slightly into the old section to make sure there are no high spots, etc?
I recently just used this coating on a 2500 Crew cab Duramax! I’m glad this coating only needs 1 coat, 1) it’s a lot of real estate to cover and 2) you only get 50ml in the bigger bottle. Still enough to do 1 coat on the entire truck and I did another coat on high impact areas. But the ease of use in this is ridiculously easy and quick!!! I also topped the coating with CanCoat EVO! Beading is insane! I think this is my favorite coating so far!
Hi Ian,
Great reviews! I have a metallic dark silver Tesla (standard color) and it is parked outside in the Southern California sun. I’m not sure if I should get MOHS Evo or Pure Evo. Which would look better on this color? Which would be better for my outdoor car in terms of protection and durability?
Thank you!
Peter
Peter – Happy to hear that you enjoyed this review by Ian! Both will offer similar durability, but I find that the Pure looks more glossy or eye popping when applied. Mohs feels slicker, but more natural. Both are great though and you really cannot go wrong with either.
The whole thing is kind of misleading. The actual MOHS hardness scale is a ranking of mineral hardness from 1 as talc to 10 as diamond.
This reference has co-opted the scale to suggest that the hardness numbers used in graphite pencils are MOHS number which could not be further from the truth. Itbis an intentional deception to make you think youvare getting a coating much harder than it really is. Make no mistake itbis far harder than wax and polymers but nowhere near the hardness that it makes believe it is on the MOHS scale. It would be much more credible if they had not based it on a deception.
G – This is directly from Gyeon:
“I do see the point of the name being a play on words. But it is certainly not “deception”. Back in 2014 we published the actual 3rd party test results when all companies and users were exploring how “hardness” of coatings over waxes and sealants really translated into a describable benefit on automotive paint. We directly show the 3 coatings at the time achieving the “9h pencil hardness” rating, even commenting directly on how the term “hardness” was misused in the industry. I’d say we were explaining that honestly very early on. Most of our communication on coatings has always been that they are more capable of protecting paint from chemical damage and contamination, while making wash maintenance efficient and effective. And that they would indeed not protect against scratches from improper wash technique or rock chips, etc. Any type of scratch reduction was really based on slickness over hardness and lowering the ability of trapped dirt to scratch the paint when using proper wash methods and products. But again, if it is someone new to the brand, I totally understand. Just turn the bottle around and read it as “SHOW”.
If you are interested in laboratory test results, they can be found on the Gyeon website as well: https://gyeon.co/article/laboratory-test-results-gyeon-coatings/
Reece,
Please reply to the post from GMclain here….
Thsnk you.
Dan – Check out the reply, which comes directly from Gyeon.
Thanks, Reece!
You guys have been my go to for years.
Is Greg still there?
Best,
Dan Franco