Ask-A-Pro: When is Wet Sanding Necessary?
by Todd CooperiderAlex poses a great question on when wet sanding is necessary to remove defects from paint:
Hi there, Pros of DI!
I had just got through reading Todd Cooperider’s walk-through of a 2008 Crystal Metallic Red Corvette that he had just done, and I noticed that at one point, he found himself wet sanding a portion of the driver’s side skirt. My questions is: At what point or how damaged does the paint/clear have to be where we find ourselves finding the need to wet sand the surface prior to compounding and polishing?
Thanks, Alex
Hi Alex, and thanks for submitting this great question.
First of all let me start by saying that wet sanding is definitely an advanced process for paint correction, and I only recommend it for those already skilled at paint correction with a rotary polisher.
To be honest, I think that for a lot of us detailers that perform wet sanding services, we just know when by looking at the defect based on experience. It depends on a lot of factors like how severe the defects are, where they’re located, how hard the paint is that we’re dealing with (softer paint can be corrected most of the time without having to be as aggressive), and a variety of other influences as well.
I always prefer to take the least aggressive method first in the interest of clear coat preservation. If I think there’s a good chance of removing the defects by just machine polishing, then I will try that route first.
If I am already using a heavy cut compound with a wool pad though, and I’m barely making a dent in the defect, then I will bump up to the more aggressive method of wet sanding, followed by multiple polishing stages to refine the area that was sanded.
The most important detail here to remember though is that you always need to be cautious when sanding. If you don’t have a paint thickness gauge to monitor how much clear coat that you’re removing, then I would recommend only very light sanding otherwise you run a serious risk of striking through to the base coat (and then a re-paint is in order).
To read more detailed information on wet sanding, and to see some amazing examples of defect removal and paint leveling that wet sanding produces, I recommend that you check out Rasky’s articles:
- 1966 Corvette Sting Ray 427 Gets Wet Sanded and Buffed to Perfection
- Full Wet Sanding of a 2005 Acura RL
But to get back to your question Alex, knowing “when” to wet sand really comes with experience. Once you know how severe of a defect that you’re capable of removing with a rotary polisher, then you’ll know when you’ll need to take the next aggressive step with wet sanding.
I hope this helps. If you have any additional questions or comments, please post your reply below.
Great article Todd!
When it comes to the removal of a defect by the means of wet sanding, I usually base my decision on how the car is used. If it’s a daily driver car that is parked out side a large portion of the day, I will try and convince the customer to live with the defect vs. trying to remove it. Now if it’s a special interest car that is basically a garage queen, I will be much more willing to wet sand the defect out. Since these cars are not subject the harsh UV rays on a daily basis, clear coat failure is not as much of a concern as it would be on a daily driver car. The OEM finishes on today’s cars is very thin and we only have so much paint to work with…when in doubt, go the safer route. 😉
Rasky
Good info Todd. I also must do some wet sanding to my car because of the orange look.
One little trick ive picked up through the years is if the scratch goes away when wet then in most cases it will wet sand out well with some 1500 grit wet sand paper. then use your favorite compound to remove the sand marks and continue on with polish. I have a mobile scratch repair business and am glad I found this website.